Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
